Spring Tour 2023 - Stopover in Ireland.

#Days 3-8

The tour began differently for me. I decided to go to Ireland first to see my family, rest up, and get over the jet lag and stuff and down as much Irish bread as I could. And of course, I spent the week practising for the tour.

During the week my brother, my mom and I travelled down to Rathdowney.

 Rathdowney is a small town in the county of Laois (pr. Leesh). I spent most of my childhood summers here too. Having had two Grandmothers, one on Dublin and the other in Rathdowney, my time with each of them was rationed. I’d like to think they argued ferociously, over who would have the most time with me.

Dublin is an incredibly vibrant city. It’s a small capital city, so you feel as if you can see literally see and touch everyone visiting walking around you. A river of languages flowing alongside the greenish black and menacing River Liffey. The Liffey was most likely named as a derivative of “Magh”, or “Life”. The rich plain or magh, of County Kildare through which the Liffey loops and curls on her way to the sea.

Rathdowney is very much the opposite of Dublin. It still feels pretty much the same as when I was a child. The “River Erkina” (little tail/piglet) flows through, and I spent hours fishing with my net for the little “Pinkines”. As of the 2016 census, the population of Rathdowney was 1,271.

By far the juiciest claim to fame Rathdowney reluctantly has, is the fact it was the birthplace of one of Ireland’s very few serial killers, Kieran Kelly. Kelly moved up to Dublin in later life, where he enlisted in the British Army, but was dishonourably discharged. He settled in London where he was arrested after confessing to several murders. He was convicted for the murder of one man, and the death of another by manslaughter. He confessed to pushing people in front of tube trains, but the large number of deaths he claimed to have been involved in is challenged, and the likely hood is it was only 5 (only 5, that doesn't feel right writing it like that). He passed in 2001, whilst still serving his time in HM Prison Durham.

Queen Victoria did pass through Rathdowney during her first visit to Ireland in 1849, describing it as "a quaint village, surrounded by hills" and went on to describe it further, as "an idyllic small town” … Thankfully she never met Kieran Kelly.

We were down in Rathdowney because sadly, my dear Uncle Mark had passed away, and there were a few legal bits and bobs to look into. I knew Mark well, I worked with him in London at the family grocery store, on Golborne Rd (off Portobello Rd). Mark was always gentle and kind, he loved nothing more than watching animal documentaries and smoking like a chimney. He lived to the fine old age of 94.

What I love about the Irish is that they will not allow formality and protocol to get in the way of chat, craic and reminiscence (sounds like a folk trio from the 60’s). The law office in the town, is of course, a family affair. Michael whom I spoke with, was the son of Paul Ryan who had started the practise, and who had finished working at 90. Michael’s own son was now also a lawyer in the practise.

 1.      When beginning a conversation in Ireland

 If the meeting is scheduled for an hour, spend at least 40 minutes, trying to see if there is any connection whatsoever between the two parties.

 If there is not, then spend the next 20 minutes establishing the new connection, leaving just enough time to make a new appointment, in which to actually chat about what you originally came to the meeting for.

 BUT !!!!!

 We had connections, so the meeting became an intricately woven exercise in the giving of information and sharing of, well absolutely everything. I loved it! Possibly because, I was not paying for his time.

 “Ryans” had been the family’s legal advisors from the very start. Michael knew my family well, in fact the very first thing he said was, how much my mother remained him, of my mother’s mother, (my grandmother). Both my mother, and my grandmother, were born in the family home in Rathdowney.

 The next hour and 20 minutes (apologies to my brother who was waiting outside in the car), were spent sharing songs, favourite books, history of the town and how sadly the outlet mall had failed. But how Rathdowney remained a real Irish town that was suspicious of everything modern, and that was why there was no coffee shop. When it became known to Michael that his younger brother David, and I, were friends over 40 years ago, well then, it was like a family gathering.

 We said our extended goodbyes, this time also including my poor brother outside.

A day before leaving for Germany, I had the pleasure of meeting up with an old friend and musical colleague from Victoria BC. Ivonne Hernandez is an amazing fiddle player and teacher, who studied at Berkeley, and is now doing a Masters at the renowned Celtic college in Limerick.

 We met at Temple Bar, the party quarter of Dublin. Every bar having live music, and a United Nations list of people, who’s only agenda was to see as many of these bars and sing Galway girl at least 5 times before the Donner Kebab hunt began at 2am.

 I chatted with Ivonne about her new life in Ireland and she told me, how at home she feels here. Ivonne is a very fine player and I know it won’t be long, before she becomes very well known on the music scene here in Ireland, but we both agreed Temple Bar was a little too “full on” for sensitive souls such as ourselves. We took the obligatory selfie by the H’penny bridge, said our goodbyes and off she went to play for the Irish and French rugby players, at the Guiness Storehouse, no doubt playing Galway Girl at least once.